The Small Wildlife in My Life

By Wilma Young

The writer celebrated her 90th birthday in November. In the late 1980’s, she served as a volunteer and intern at several national parks, including the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge on the Eastern Shore of Virginia. Along with her volunteer duties, she found time to make use of her research and writing talents. This is one of a number of articles and trail guides she wrote. Following a chance meeting with Wild Pony Tales publisher, Robert Boswell, four years ago on the Chincoteague Refuge tour bus, she made this article and others available to the website.

Writhing boa constrictors, ravenous tigers and lethal stone fish have kept theirdistance from me up to this decade of my life. However small critters have intruded into my household and life style with some consistency.          

Wilma Young at her home in Fredericksburg, Virginia. Photo by Misty Thornton.

Wilma Young at her home in Fredericksburg, Virginia. Photo by Misty Thornton.

If you choose to live on federal sites in the wilderness as I have and trade your volunteer skills for housing, you may find that you have unusual housemates. My human housemates have been a delight. The small wildlife has been interesting, captivating and in some cases given to intimacies I could have forgone; as for example, the “kissing bug” known also as the assassin bug.  

For my first adventure I had chosen the desert. One late October evening I arrived at a national monument in the Southwest where I was assigned a vacant cottage that had not been inhabited for a season. The chief ranger explained that some of the outside critters might have moved inside during the absence of human tenants. “We do not use poisons or pesticides,” he warned me.

As I did not plan to do battle with any of the incumbent residents, I gave this admonition no further thought. Monte Carlo in the carport, duffel bag and suitcases in the room I had chosen for myself, I set about to make myself at home.

A hot shower seemed in order after the long drive across the Sonoran Desert; icy drops across my back were my reward. Ah well, a sponge bath in a gallon of water heated on the kitchen stove would have to do: locate maintenance personnel first thing in the morning.

For a single diner the dining room table was too expansive so I set up my light supper on the coffee table by the patio window. A cheese omelet, fruit and coffee would be enjoyed as I looked across the valley at the Sierra Anchos Mountains now bathed in alpenglow.

SOFT SOUNDS OF SOMEONE chewing caught my attention. Dismissing them as the odd noises of an unfamiliar house, I finished my omelet. No. Definitely this is someone chewing with open mouth. If I must have an intruder, let him have good table manners. Gently I put down my coffee cup. Stealthily I tiptoed to the kitchen door. At the far end of the kitchen I spotted an upright pipe which had evidently been the waste pipe for a washing machine. The top of the pipe was capped with a bit ofheavy plastic, secured by a rubber band. Extending through the plastic was a small head, jaws busily destroying the plastic. Field mouse? Deer mouse? White footed mouse? Though I was unsure of the species here in Arizona, a mouse is only a mouse and no threat.

When the wee rodent discovered me, he ducked out of sight. I retreated a step or two and waited. Soon the tiny face re-appeared and the plastic demolition continued. We executed this advance and retreat dance until I decided to return to my coffee. I have no problem with sharing the house with a mouse. “‘Wee slicket cowerin creature’ and all that Bobby Burns stuff” I mused.

By the time I was enjoying my second cup of coffee, it occurred to me that I was in the desert and had no idea where the other end of that pipe might be nor what other small creatures might use this passage to my domicile.

Putting additional plastic over the pipe was a useless endeavor. A wad of steel wool would do the trick as mice can’t chew through that and I was sure snakes, spiders and scorpions would be equally deterred. Exploration of the cupboards revealed no steel wool and I was 30 miles from the nearest store, which would most likely be closed at this hour.

My Webster’s Unabridged Dictionary lay in the trunk of my car and there, I realized, was my salvation. Balanced carefully on the top of the pipe, it removed the possibility of rodent, reptile or arachnid intrusion. It did produce a lifted eyebrow from the new housemate later that week.

THE HEAD OF MAINTENANCE explained the next day while restoring my hot water supply that he had routinely checked the empty house and had found desiccated corpses of mice. He was puzzled as to the mode of entry and once they were in, why had they not exited by the same route rather than starving to death. So was the mystery of the skinny little corpses solved.

“We never kill any creatures on the site,” the chief ranger had said. Although I had cheerily replied, “no problem,” I was forced, after considered thought, to amend my answer, “unless, of course, you have brown recluse spiders, in which case, I’m putting out a contract on them.”

This negative attitude can be justified. Twenty years ago while living in a garden apartment in the Yorkville section of Manhattan, I had met my first and only brown recluse. During a shower one night I noticed a small red spot on my thigh. The next morning I was unable to cover the inflamed area with my outspread hand. The medical folk failed to identify it immediately and for two weeks I was plagued with disagreeable tests as the wound deepened and the tissue became necrotic. At long last it was identified as the bite of a brown recluse spider. Those miserable weeks left an indelible memory as well as a scar.

The second night in the cottage I was happily involved in a P. D. James mystery when I noticed a slight movement on the davenport beside me. Sure enough…my nemesis! A brown recluse spider with the tell tale mark of a violin on its back. Inoffensive looking…wimpy, in fact. Before my tenure was over I encountered a dozen of these arachnids in my quarters. What happened to them? I wish to assert my Fifth Amendment privilege.

TARANTULAS SEEM TO ME more acceptable housemates. Lying on the floor one coolish spring evening propped up against a pillow, I was enjoying the scent of our juniper wood fire when a tarantula wandered by. When viewed from above, they scarcely seem menacing but in an eye to eye position the view is startling. From this vantage point, the advantage seems to be all on the side of the spider, he seemed to be stalking me on his long hairy legs.

I reminded myself of all that reading I had done. “This creature is not aggressive.” OK. “The bite is painful but not deadly.” OK. “This spider eats other insects which are more threatening to humans than he is,” the ranger had said. OK, Hoping my hairy friend had an appetite for brown recluse spiders I moved myself and my pillow and went off to make my always-consoling cup of coffee. I did leave the screen door open and as far as I know he went out into the desert twilight to share his experience with his chums.

In that same cottage, I was awakened one night by an appalling stench. Something, I was sure, had died in the living room and had reached a state of decay that passed all imagination. Javelinas lived on the site, I’d been told and they were said to emit a noticeable odor. Noticeable, indeed! Rank…fetid…malodorous!

These wild pigs had escaped my notice before. Now was my chance to catch them in full scent, as it were. Barefoot and in the dark, I reached the front window through which I could view a dozen or so pigs scuffling around the garbage can. When I turned on the patio light each porker attempted to go in a different direction. They are said to be near sighted and easily panicked. This rugby scrum surely bore out that theory.

“Hey! This way, guys!” they seemed to be saying.

“No…no…that’s the people place! The desert is this way! I’ve told you and told you and told you…toward the saguaro.”

EVENTUALLY THEY SORTED themselves out and disappeared into the night. Essence of javelina clung to the prickly pear in the morning. The pads of the cactus were scalloped with teeth marks, portions of the pad bitten out. Javelinas devour pad, spines and all.

An early explorer had written home that a pig existed in this part of the world and was unusual in that “its navel is located on its back.” In truth, the scent gland and not the navel is located on its back, a bit above the tail. While a skunk emits scent only as a means of defense, the javelina seems to have an on-going problem with body odor.

I had not wished to appear threatening to any of the indigenous wildlife but my first coffee time on the patio at six a. m., struck terror into the heart of a raven. Or perhaps it was indignation. He had perched on the top of a utility pole, evidently his chosen site for over view of the cafeteria possibilities on the desert floor. For a season no human had infringed on his territory. Now a diminutive white haired creature in flapping ivory colored pajamas was intruding.

After lengthy and nervous inspection of the interloper, he flew off. By the time I’d reached my second cup of coffee, he’d returned with his mate. When I reported the ravens’ apparent concern to a ranger later in the day, I learned that the staff referred to the pair as “Rodney” and “RacqeL” After a few days of morning inspections, the duo accepted my presence and we shared morning meals harmoniously in what I now thought of as “our” territory.

The raven family proved not to be as gracious toward picnickers in front of the visitors’ center. Closing time was five o’clock in the afternoon and it was evident to me that the ravens were operating on an efficient inner clock, as they would do a discreet fly-by at four, assessing the dinner possibilities. Returning to a near by cottonwood tree, they’d supervise each mouthful of hamburger as it disappeared down human gullets. Four thirty would elicit another fly-over, this time at a lower altitude and with a touch of menace. From then on until five, they stomped around the picnic area looking for all the world like impatient diners at your local restaurant. Five o’clock came and all patience was exhausted. The ravens would hop about on the picnic table gobbling up the scraps before picnickers could get their utensils packed into hampers. Perhaps pepperoni and pasta salads are interesting additions to the desert menu.

THE ONLY WOUND I received during that stint was from the assassin bug. This insect looks a bit like a cockroach with a long neck. (Having lived in Manhattan apartments for many years, I have an intimate knowledge of cockroaches in all their variations.)

The assassin attacked in the night, as is his habit. They do like to approach the human head, biting in the hair or near the mouth… hence the sobriquet, “kissing bug.”Having read up on desert wildlife, I knew that the initial bite was not painful. The bite produces a blister and only when the blister is broken does the victim suspect foul play. The fluid within the blister has the effect of a weak acid.

I wakened to find my head damp and burning. My first kissing bug! Not serious unless one is allergic. Like many other insect bites, they give no indication of trouble for about twenty minutes. Checked my watch, made coffee, estimated how long it would take to get help if I began to exhibit symptoms. No reaction except for the burning sensation. “And so, “as Mr. Pepys might have said, “to bed.” A single bite is a mere annoyance but if one were kissed by several, it could be a painful experience.

As spring arrived and the desert came to life, so too did the scorpions. My first encounter was in the bathroom. As I prepared to turn on the hot water tap in the tub, I found myself facing a scorpion.

“D.M.”, I called to my housemate, “if a scorpion is just sitting still in the tub, is it dead?”

Now this is plainly a call for help but my housemate recognized sheer cowardice and responded from the kitchen with only one word, “No.”

OK. Now I try for stupid. “What do I do with it?”

“Hit it with a shoe.”

\No help from that quarter and no recollection of the “Don’t kill.” dictum. I walloped it with a sturdy hiking boot.

A scorpion really looks like a shrimp walking around your house, except that the tail of the scorpion turns up in a threatening position. That’s what he’s going to get you with…that’s where the stinger is located. The sting of the standard run of the mill scorpion is not as likely to produce pain and poisoning as that of the little bark scorpion. This devious rascal is given to lurking at the back of dark shelves or underneath the piece of stove wood you’ve picked up without first examining the area.

IT’S WISE ALSO TO SHAKE OUT your shoes before slipping feet therein and it’s also a good idea to shake out all garments before putting arms, legs or other body parts into aforementioned clothes. I make it a practice to throw back all bed coverings and inspect the landscape of the sheets before entrusting my body to its nightly resting spot.

I found an odd tool on my patio. It appeared to be about the length of a golf club but had a jaw on the nether end, which could be closed by clasping a device on the handle.

“What’s that object on my patio that looks like a golf club?”

“That’s a snake snatcher.”

“Why do I want to snatch a snake?”

“In case he’s gone to sleep on your door sill, you’ll want to move him.” I doubt that seriously. I figure that any individual representative of the four varieties of rattlesnake which call Arizona home will be most thoroughly annoyed at being moved mid-nap. I made it my routine to leave by whichever door (and, thank God, I had two doors) did not have a snake guarding its portal.

A local paper carried the woeful tale of a man who owned a pet rattlesnake. Owner, in an alcohol induced haze, decided to kiss the pet rattler. This in view of Old Buddy whom he expected would be impressed with the close relationship he’d established with the rattler. Rattler took exception to the display of affection and struck…full in the mouth and tongue. (We don’t know, maybe the rattler objected to the aroma of “Jim Beam” or perhaps that just wasn’t his drink of choice.

Stunned at the rejection by his pet, but recalling the theory that a small jolt of electricity will negate the effect of the venom, he instructed Old Buddy to run out to the pick-up truck, get the battery cables, attach one end to the battery and the other to his damaged mouth and start up the truck. He had to go to the hospital anyway.

I know nothing of the efficacy of this treatment, but in the event that I ever have an altercation with a reptile, I have requested a quick trip to my nearest health care provider and I do not want to stop off for treatment with battery chargers or stun guns.

TO GIVE RATTLESNAKES their due, they are normally nonagressive and will not attack unless they consider that their space has been invaded. In my judgement a boozy kiss counts as invasion of space.

The bull snake, another desert dweller, puts on a stunning performance, hissing when annoyed. A membrane at the opening of the windpipe vibrates, exaggerating the small hiss to a hoarse threatening roar. (No, you’d not believe it was a Black Angus bull giving voice, but it is a startling sound coming from a source just in inch in front of your sneakers.) The bull snake isn’t venomous and his appetite for small rodents makes him popular with farmers and ranchers.

Spring brings to the desert not only scorpions and incredible flower displays; it also brings the delightful delicate lizards. These miniature dragons are hide and seek specialists. As I walked the trails, I’d watch the lizard move from the shelter of the teddy bear cholla to the protection of a prickly per cactus. Just once I wanted to hold the darting creature in my hands. Now and then they’d be motionless mid-trail, but at the slightest movement from me, there’d be a bare spot where late I saw a lizard.

Handsomest of the lizard family is the Gila monster. Like the tarantula and rattlesnake, he is not aggressive but if threatened will attack. Indiscriminate playing about with this fellow can bring painful and serious consequences.

A visitor enraged the staff when he was found throwing rocks at a dignified Gila monster making his way slowly and thoughtfully from burrow to outside world, bent on nothing more vicious that seeking out a late lunch.

The visitor defended his action by saying, “I was only throwing stuff at the thing so my wife could see it run.” Excuse unacceptable.

A summer spent in the North woods of Wisconsin brought no new creatures into my life as I am a mid-westerner, though it did afford an opportunity to see some old friends at close range. There was a resident great blue heron who hung out at the foot of our dock in the Elk River and spent his mornings fishing for breakfast. I often took my own breakfast to the dock to share the morning with him and to appreciate his infinite patience.

ONE RATHER COOL DAY I chose to sit inside by the window and was astonished to discover that the light from the window was suddenly extinguished. The lower half of the window was completely covered by the outspread wings of a great blue who was clinging frantically to the narrow windowsill. Looking out the other window, I saw our resident heron stalking this interloper and he was bent on violence. The visitor, caught between an irate peer and a small though questionable example of some alien species, took off with great flapping, never to trespass again.

Those mornings on the dock were sometimes shared by river otters scooting enthusiastically down the bank and into the river. A smaller face peeked at me through the marsh grass one evening and I realized it was a juvenile of some sort. Furry pint-sized guy was as curious as I was so he slipped closer and I knew him to be a baby mink. Mom showed up quickly and supervised the encounter. Baby kept circling me, never closer than four feet but never farther from me than six feet. He hung around till Mom called dinner hour.

Little black bears are not unknown in Eastern Ohio, as young males will often wander over the line from Pennsylvania in search of a suitable mate. The days on the Elk gave me my first chance to watch the fishing prowess of a hungry young bear. My favorite spot on the river was only fifty feet from his fish supply, making it possible for me to observe his skill.

The true gift was the sight of three golden eagles on a dead pine tree snag across the river. At first glance I had believed them to be young bald eagles…too young to have the distinctive white head feathers of an adult. A closer look through glasses convinced me that they were my first golden eagles as the golden head feathers gleamed in the sunlight.

THERE WAS ALSO THE CASE of the Phantom Beaver of the North Woods although I never actually laid eyes on him. The radio and newspaper reports carried the story of a truck driver who had been losing gasoline for miles and had finally pulled into a truck stop miles south of the first spill. His explanation was that he had “run over a great big beaver.” This monstrous beaver had put a hole in the bottom of his gas tank. Sure.

Let’s think about this. I have never actually looked at the bottom of a tanker truck from the vantage point of the road so I’m not sure of the actual clearance. However, given that the largest Wisconsin beaver probably won’t be heavier than fifty pounds and has relatively short legs, I find it a stretch of the imagination to believe that the gas tank was ruptured by a beaver collision.

Of course there is the ancestor of the present day beaver which, if fossil remains do not mislead us, weighed nearly four hundred pounds. We can be sure our trucker didn’t meet him. I drove to the site of the supposed disaster and found no remnant of bone or pelt… no blood.

The Upper Peninsula of Michigan brought me into closer contact with the bear clan. I left my cabin one early dawn and skidded on what I thought to be a rotten apple. Looking more closely, I realized that the apple had gone through the digestive system of a large quadruped. Likely to be a bear. Not to worry, too late in the season for small cubs to need protection so Mom probably wouldn’t be in an irascible mood. Besides, I have better sense than to get between Mom and the kids.

If bear lore is correct, I’m in no danger from the “unexplained bear attack” as old wives’ tales suggest that women who are menstruating have been injured or killed by bear. I’ve been safe from that peril for rather a long time. We had glimpsed the bear helping herself to apples from time to time.

Sandhill cranes had a parade ground near my cabin where they were assembling for the trip south. The rattling and trumpeting cries provided a convincing wake-up call every morning. Sleepers a full mile away must have been roused as well.

Now the barrier islands of the Southeast…there is where my heart lies. Never mind the ticks. I know they’re a nuisance and a threat to health but the islands are so enchanting that I don’t mind the regular night time pre-shower tick check.

TICK SPECIALISTS TELL me that nudists suffer the least from tick attacks. Why? Because there are fewer places to hide. Ticks like the warm coziness under bra straps, panty edges. Musing over this, I realize that the nudists do run risks because the ticks are also fond of the hairy places of the body. So I follow the standard protective measures…long sleeves… long pants tucked into boots…cap…and the protective spray as well. The ticks don’t loiter at the beach which gives the rest of us a break.

The nicest snake I’ve met lives on my island. He’s the hog-nosed snake. His snout is turned up like that of a young pig. The production put on by this reptile is impressive. If molested, he’s capable of puffing up his head and the upper part of his body and hissing. The enemy who doesn’t get the message may find that the snake will now strike. The mouth is usually closed during the strike, not that it matters, as he isn’t venomous.

Enemy unconvinced? Hog nose now flops down, rolls around, open mouthed. “I’m dying…I’m dying…I can’t hurt you,” is the message. After a death scene that Sarah Bernhardt would have envied, he now stretches out on his back dead…dead…dead. Try to call his bluff and pick him up and he’ll do the death scene all over again. That’s my kind of snake. One liked to pop into our library at the refuge. Removed and left under the autumn olive tree, he’d rest a while and then return to the library to further his education.

Just before the refuge closed to the public one evening, a biologist trucked in a seal from the beach. There wasn’t a mark on him but he’d been found in the sand in evident exhaustion. Frequently we’d find dead seals and dolphins with propeller marks on them or entrapped in nets. The biologist was unable to identify the species but said that the creature was too weak to be returned to the water. Decision to keep him over night. I volunteered my bathtub but was reminded that my length… not quite five feet…was somewhat less than the seal’s. He spent the night in the boathouse barking if a human came near.

In the morning he was trucked and ferried to a re-hab facility. The following day a technician from the first aid for sea critters center placed a call to let us know that he was “up and eating on his own” after a few hours of intravenous feeding. The specialists there reported that he was a hooded seal and his neighborhood was Greenland. He should not have been south of Nova Scotia.

Anybody’s guess as to how he got so far from home. Perhaps, as a young male, he had been driven from the pod by the older males. As he wandered he could have been caught in a storm. The nor’easter that hit our shore had probably buffeted him about and tossed him up on our beach. What happened to him? I didn’t check but I have to hope that a fishing vessel headed north might have let him stow away until they got to colder waters. Sometimes it’s better not to ask.

IT WAS A STORM that brought us a European visitor. This was a European Little Egret. He should have crossed the Mediterranean from Africa en route to a nesting site in southern France. My theory is that he made a left at the intersection instead of a right. As none of us was there, we really don’t know. We do know that he arrived on our shores bedraggled and weak after the storm. The news hit the birders’ hot line. (Yes, they really had a hot line prior to the Internet. I’d like to think that the answering machine had been scarlet tanager scarlet or goldfinch yellow, but I never saw it.)

I do know that we had calls from all over the country to confirm the presence of our immigrant. I personally took calls from Florida, California, Michigan and Wisconsin. Each birder, eager to add this egret to his or her life time list was prepared to board the first plane leaving the local airport and come to our site to view the exotic visitor. Some callers wanted to be assured that he would be present when they arrived. As the creature is winged and has perfectly usable legs, one can’t make guarantees.

After days of egret mania, one of the staff and I suggested that we kidnap a snowy egret who resembles the ELE closely, and make a few alterations in appearance. We might add a bit of blue eye shadow on the lores of the snowy, add a much longer plume to the back of the head as the ELE had a spectacular set of feathers there at breeding time. Then, we announced, we could secure the impersonator out in the pool so that every visitor would be assured of a sighting. Our whimsy was overlooked.

I had a notion that we might convince an international airline to return him to his native shore. Great publicity for the airline but nobody picked up the idea.

The ELE was remarkably cooperative and stayed in the same fresh water pool all summer. “Waitin’ at the church” and not even one of his species closer than the Riviera. Never even picked up a casual date with a snowy egret although I, a matchmaker at heart, kept muttering that with a bag over the head of the snowy, neither of them would have known the difference. Reluctantly, I did admit that even if we achieved an inter-egret offspring, it would have been sterile and the breeding would have been for naught. But at least he wouldn’t have been lonely.

WE WERE CONCERNED as winter approached. Obviously the ELE couldn’t survive our cool season. Snowys left for Florida and still the ELE was in our pool. I returned to the Midwest but was heartened to learn that he did leave with the last of the snowy egrets. The next summer there were reports from the beaches to our north that he had returned. I suspect that this was wishful thinking.

Ponies probably don’t qualify as “small wildlife” but the first wild pony foal of the season was born behind my house…the house of the former lighthouse keeper. A winsome, wobbly legged buckskin colt. Great temptation to smuggle him into the back seat of my car so we could escape together. No, no… now that I’m a “professional vagabond,” I don’t have pets. I just enjoy the wild creatures and share the wild places with them.

The smallest of the small wildlife I encountered was on a darkened beach in springtime. Dinoflagellates were rampant! These one-celled creatures produce a cool green light when disturbed. The phosphorescence of the sea. Great rollers came in edged with Fourth of July sparklers. Eerie and lovely. I walked in the sand and looked behind me to see my own footprints glow briefly with an ethereal light. A hand drawn leisurely through the sand left incandescent lines of delicate green.

“Why do they light up?” I asked the biologist. “They’re afraid of the dark,” he said. As mentioned before, sometimes it’s better not to ask.

“E. T.” came to visit. Really he was a red-bellied turtle someone found in the midst of traffic on the island to our west. Good Samaritan brought him over so he wouldn’t be crushed by civilization. We let him loose in the office to wait for a ranger from the national seashore to get off duty and come over to pick him up. We suspect he may have been a pet because he spent most of the afternoon walking from desk to desk, staring at the staff members. He bore a startling resemblance to in the extra-terrestrial of movie fame. He gazed so thoughtfully at the telephones that we expected him to announce at any moment that he wanted to “call home.”

NO SUITOR FOR THE LOVE of a female can be more reckless or dedicated than the woodcock. Not prepossessing in a appearance this small bird has courting rituals that demand respect and admiration. I had heard his pre-flight comments often. He mumbles “peent…peent,” to get his lady’s attention. Oddly enough I never saw the female in the vicinity. Does she hide modestly in the undergrowth?

Although she wasn’t in evidence, I thought his ceremony deserved at least one captivated on-looker so I stayed quietly in attendance. While he emits his plaintive “peent” he walks around on the bare ground. Poor little guy, his legs are so short we probably wouldn’t notice him if he were walking in the grass. His beak is over long for his pudgy body and he’s really rather popeyed.

After he had my attention with the marching about and peenting, he few upward into the night sky. In pale moonlight it was difficult to follow his flight but he seemed to be flying skyward in a spiral, all the while making soft twittering sounds. How high does he go? Out of sight of this observer.

When he reached the peak of his flight I could hear only the sort muted whispers of a call and then when he must have been breathless with the effort, he flung himself earthward. Back in my view he came tumbling, recklessly and all the while making hushed whispering love calls. Heart in mouth, I was certain that he’d be unable to level off, that he would plunge his lovelorn impetuous body directly into the unforgiving earth. Just at the last possible moment, he leveled off and sank to the ground. Brave small soul, and so in love! The object of all this lovemaking^never appeared. I hope she was impressed, I certainly was.

He repeated his celebration of love several more times that evening. I’m told he may do it again in the early hours of the dawn. What does it take to convince a girl?

The highlight of my first season on the island was to be the squirrel census. Romantic setting… moonlight…sea mists tangled in the banches of the loblolly pines…sounds of surf as the Atlantic piles up against our barrier island. It couldn’t be a better night to fulfill my small dream. The Great Squirrel Census.

The Delmarva Peninsula fox squirrels are large members of the squirrel family weighing up to three pounds and nose to tip of tail, sometimes reaching thirty inches in length. They have rounder heads, shorter ears and neck than your average back yard squirrel from Ohio. In general, a sweeter look. Soft grey backs and silver on the underside. They are seriously endangered, now living only in Maryland and Virginia.

WE ARE GOING TO SNEAK UP on these guys while they’re asleep, weigh them, sex them, count the number of family members at home and take blood samples. Vital information as our residents are probably all of one gene pool and an illness could wipe out the entire population.

Six nests and nobody home. Night warm, we think everybody may still be out socializing. At nest seven, I realize that my legs have turned into cooked spaghetti. I’m breathing with difficulty. Cold sweat is soaking my shirt. I’m trembling. It dawns on me that I am an old party and I’m probably dying of a heart attack. There’s no chance to say good bye to my kids, my lover. I’m going to die out here on a sand dune in a maritime forest.

I tell the group leader that I can’t continue Pride prevents me from actually voicing the lines in my mind…lines from old desert adventure movies. “Leave me here…save yourselves…tell them I died bravely.”

Leader suggests I take the truck back to headquarters and the rest of the team can walk back. I can’t see to drive what with the sweat pouring into my eyes and besides I’m shaking too badly to steer.

The biologist offers to take me home. This person is four foot six but I have to admit she’s a game kid. She drives through the night standing up although she swore in the days to follow that her bottom was actually on the seat. I know better.

Raccoons, ‘possums, wild ponies, sikas, skunks, red foxes, every island dweller darted in front of the truck, intent on suicide. The mist closed in, difficult to tell where road ends and sea begins but I don’t care. I’m dying anyway.

Twenty-four hours later I wake up in my bed where once the lighthouse keeper’s wife slept and I’m fine. Now I remember that one of my housemates had suffered a particularly nasty virus. His parting gift before leaving for Vermont had obviously been his own special brand of virus.

The tragedy is that never did I get to have in my hands an infant DPFS (Delmarva Peninsula fox squirrel) nor did I get to count even one of our thriving population.

The Graceful, Elegant Dunes are Gone, All But a Memory

REPORTER’S NOTEBOOK

By Tammy Rickman

Mrs. Rickman and her family are residents of Chincoteague. Their second home in the summer is Assateague Beach.

“I have never seen anything like it.”

This was the response from Susan Fair, a long-time employee of the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, who lives in staff housing on Assateague Island. With her husband, James, who is on the law enforcement staff at the refuge and their two children, they remained at home on the island as the storm pounded the refuge for three days.

Fair was one of the first to have access to the refuge and it is her photos that are posted on the refuge website and are showing in the information center theater. A veteran of other storms, who knows nearly inch of the refuge, Fair was stunned at what she found when she first ventured out. I soon discovered why.

Having moved to Chincoteague in August of 2008 the storm was a major experience for me. So many things had drawn me to this place and the raw beauty of Assateague was high on that list. Even before moving here, we held yearly passes to many parks and spent a great deal of my time on Assateague year round, sun, rain, snow, ice or sleet…calm or storm.

I had driven out to the island early Friday morning , snapped several pictures and marveled at the raw beauty of the storm. As I drove out Beach Road there were trees down in the woodlands. Rising water and wind had strewn soil, foliage, and other debris in the road. 

The canals were all but void of wildlife and Swans Cove Pool was eerily empty. A few Great Egrets roamed the water and a “V” of Snow Geese flew over head.

As I neared Tom’s Cove Visitors Center, I began to realize the full impact of our interview with Lou Hinds, the refuge manager. The sand was clearly visible from a distance. Parking near the tire pumping station, camera in hand, I ventured out along the loosely packed sand.

There are few words that can effectively communicate what I saw as I looked south toward what used to be a parking lot. Fences that once marked parking areas were now all but gone. Barely six inches peeked out above the sand. Tires and marsh sod littered the sand. Bike racks were buried and the Romtek toilets which had survived the storm sat, doors open, half full of sand that was near three feet deep inside

The Ocean was considerably calmer than my last visit on the Thursday of the storm. Shells of unbelievable proportions speckled the beach, a shell collector’s dream. I was struck by vastness of the beach. As far as I could see North and South, all was starkly flat. The graceful and elegant dunes are gone, all but a memory. As I turned back toward Beach Road, I contemplated the reality that the beach upon which I now walked is the same beach on which I stood last Thursday….so familiar yet so different.

Storm Leaves Assateague Beach Future Uncertain

 

By Tammy Rickman

Each sunny summer day approximately 1,000 vehicles are parked in the lots of the Assateague Island beach. Visitors, both local and from across the nation, drag drink coolers, umbrellas, blankets, surfboards and children onto the nearby sand for a day of fun and sun.

But anyone who goes to the beach now will be in for a shock. The November nor’easter, that howled and roared its way across the eastern seaboard for three days, has left the parking lot buried under three feet of sand.                                                                                              

Lou Hinds, manager of Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge

Lou Hinds, manager of Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge

Bike racks have virtually vanished, and only the top six inches of parking lot fence remain visible. Perhaps the most striking sight is the vast flatness of the beach, now covered with old tires, shells and other debris that the Atlantic Ocean coughed up and washed ashore.

The dunes that once curved through the landscape, photographed from every angle, have been dissolved for miles by the hand of Mother Nature. For days after the storm, high tide waves washed over the windblown sand, continuing to flood the adjoining marshes and pools.

Lou Hinds, manager of the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, said the northern end parking lot, for about 100 cars, will be restored for year-round use. Whether the much larger southern parking lots will be made usable again quickly will be the subject of upcoming meetings with  Hinds,  Chincoteague town officials, members of the business community and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife service. Hinds said the cost of restoring the beach would be between $500,000 and $900,000 and he isn’t sure it would be sound economic judgment to spend this amount when another storm could come along at any-time and wash that work away.

The Refuge is located on Assateague Island, a barrier island off the Eastern Shore of Virginia.

Unlike the beaches, the wildlife of the island has weathered the storm and proved resilient, although the plant food supply for migrant birds has been severely impacted. Mending fences and rounding up ponies seems almost insignificant against the estimate that has been given to restore beaches, parking, and facilities to full operational pre-storm conditions. Last week as Hinds was working on a damage report, volunteers were being mobilized to assist his staff with a list of clean-up tasks.

The unrelenting storm began its rage on a day when refuge staff had off, Veteran’s Day, November 18.

 On Tuesday, the day before, Hinds said he was listening to weather reports on the Weather Channel when he heard – “…this will be a storm of historical significance.” With his normal good humor Hinds held his hands on either side of his head, cocked his head slightly to the side, and with a light laugh said, “ that when those words went in his ears and they bounced around in his head a long time.”

When Hinds got into work Tuesday he put a call in to the National Park Service (NPS) and asked if they were going to pull together an Incident Command Team for the storm event. They responded with, “What storm event?” Nor’easters can often become more or less than predicted. Storm reports at that point on Tuesday had been mixed and nothing had sprouted red flags for the NPS.

On Wednesday the storm grew in intensity and so did the weather forecasts. Hinds said that had the storm increased to the point that it became a named storm, hurricane, or other significant weather event, he would have called staff in to begin securing things. However, even as predications grew more serious forecasters remained reserved in an effort not to over predict the storm.

On Thursday morning, Nov. 19, Hinds and Kim Halpin, deputy refuge manager, had a meeting scheduled with some people out of Washington, D.C. By Wednesday afternoon there was already talk of rising tides closing the causeway between Chincoteague and the mainland. With Government Offices closed on Wednesday, Veterans Day, there was no way to contact them and cancel.

As the storm picked up power through Wednesday and talk of possibly closing the causeway increased, Hinds said they called staff members and told them to stay home Thursday in an effort to avoid them getting stuck on Chincoteague should the causeway close. Hinds and Halpin came in on Thursday morning along with a few others involved in the meeting. They finished out their day and decided not to open the Refuge on Friday.

On Thursday, as predicted, the highway department decided to close the causeway at 3:30 pm. After listening to the wind howl all night, Hinds, who lives on the mainland, said he tried to return to Assateague early Friday morning but was only able to make it as far as the light at Royal Farms. The causeway had remained closed through the night and into the next morning.

The causeway would finally reopen around 10 a.m. after storm debris was plowed from the road, dangling power lines were secured, flooding had gone down and the road checked for damage.

While waiting for access to the islands to assess the damage, Hinds was on the phone with NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) and the Storm Prediction Center to see how much longer the storm would continue. He was told that reports indicated the storm would continue into Saturday.

Hinds finally made it onto Chincoteague and navigated the flooded streets as he made his way over to Assateague Island. When he reached the refuge he immediately began the storm damage assessment. In a solemn voice Hinds said, “I’ll be honest with you; at that time I was very, very, very concerned because no matter where I drove out this way everything was under water.”

He was referring to the area on the northern side of the road which includes the Wildlife Loop, Marsh Trail, Swans Cove Pool, Snow Geese Pool, Black Duck Pool and trail, the service road and areas beyond, all popular locations for thousands of visitors.

His concern was well placed. The flooding was a combination of storm surge and rolling surf. The graceful, fragile dunes which curved down the beach protecting the land lying behind them had vanished, victims of the storm surge, pounding surf, and howling winds.

In his office Friday, Nov. 20, Hinds described his first view of the beach as, “A sight to behold.” He said when he stepped out of the vehicle the beaches were as flat as the table top, where he was sitting with reporters.  He watched the surf roll in and keep going. The waves came in one after another, rippling their way over the flat surface of the beaches, across what used to be parking lots, pouring into the impoundments or out into the marshes.  

Impoundments are man-made pools and drainage systems that the Refuge uses to grow and manage wetland vegetation. This is done through a series of gates that control the water levels and promote the growth of moist soil plants to support the water-fowl and other wild inhabitants of the island.

No matter where he drove there was flooding and debris. The debris came not only from nature but also from manmade structures and substances. Many of the Romtek toilets and trash collection units were out in the marsh either floating or sunk along with many storage sheds.

 Hinds indicated that their biggest concern became Beach Road. On a map he pointed to a large section of the northern beach where the waves rolling over into the impoundments and marshes was unstoppable. The continued flow of water compounded an already waterlogged situation.

Along Beach Road there is a single drainage pipe underneath the road on the curve just before you reach the corral area. The 36 inch pipe can maintain a considerable amount of water flow. The pipe drains Swans Cove Pool in the event it fills too high and maintains the water levels to the desired height.

The pipe was filled with rushing water that gushed through and out into the marshes along the southern side of the road. As waves continued to roll across the beaches and into the already saturated pools, the water had nowhere to go but to flow over the road and out into the marsh.

The water in Tom’s Cove and the marshes behind Tom’s Cove Visitors Center was not as high as the water in the pools that make up the impoundment systems. This created a hazardous situation for the road. There was around six feet of water in Swan’s Cove Pool and at low tide there was none near the road on the other side. As the water flowed across the road it sped up because of the lower water levels on that side of the road. The speed increase caused eddies which began to eat at the edges of the road underneath the pavement.

Eddies are like small whirlpools. The water swirls and swirls in increasing speeds. As the water churns and swirls it eats the dirt out from beneath the pavement and eventually the pavement collapses causing the road to give way and washout under the pressure of the water flow. Fortunately that only occurred in one small place along Beach Road.

However, the concern was that the tremendous amount of water pressure pushing against the road as the water tried to escape into Tom’s Cove would blow out the road. Maintenance crews were dispatched and they did find several leaks along the road as they began inspections. Thankfully the road held and after water levels fell the areas were repaired.

“At that point we began to look at the problems from a long term point of view,” Hinds said. With no dunes or elevated terrain to protect the marshes and pools, the road remained in jeopardy. At high tide the waves continued to roll across the beaches and into the pools and marshes. Hinds’ concern was that the next storm will again fill Swan Cove Pool and once again the only outlet for the water will remain that one 36 inch pipe.

He said in his opinion the pool should be abandoned as a managed impoundment. This would allow them to place several drain pipes beneath Beach Road creating a tidal pool that allows water to rise and fall with the tides. “This would alleviate pressure against the road that will ultimately come with the next storm surge,” said Hinds.

The installation of the pipes will save the other pools in the impoundment. Snow Goose Pool, Mallard Pool and Shovler Pool would avoid the contamination of too much salt water. An abundance of the salt water inhibits plant growth which in turn impacts animal life.

There is no way to prevent salt water from reaching the other impoundments but the pipes would allow Swan’s Cove Pool to act as a filter. The flooding was so substantial at the peak of the storm on Friday that somewhere between 75 and 95 percent of the Wildlife Loop was submerged to considerable depths. Water would be able to flow through more freely and at a greater rate. This would prevent water from backing up into the other pools because it can’t drain fast enough.

The beach reopened to the public Saturday, Nov. 21 with limited access.  Hours of operation are from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. This is normal winter hours of operation. The Bateman Center and Tom’s Cove Visitors Center will also remain open on their individual winter hours of operation.

Trails are now open.

Parking is limited to the area around Tom’s Cove Visitors Center and alongside Beach Road before the visitor’s center. Beyond that the sand has encroached all the way up to the tire pumping station which inhibits additional parking.

Night fishing is also cancelled for now as the debris on the beach, which continues to wash in from the ocean, presents too many hazards once night falls. Fishing is permitted during operational hours but all visitors must exit the Refuge by 6 p.m.

The OSV has reopened with limited access. This is because a considerable area beyond that all the way down to where the Hook starts goes under water at high tide. Hinds said reopening the Hook is dependent on Mother Nature and whether the new inlet fills in or continues to wash out at high tide.

The beach parking presents another issue for the National Park Service to overcome. Currently there are several feet of sand covering the parking lots. The short term plans are to uncover the left parking lot, parking lot 1, and restore it to its original use. This will provide about a hundred spaces.

The goal is to give access back to the year round visitors. Hinds said, “Our goal is to get it so people can get out there and see the beautiful force of Mother Nature, it is something to behold and people want to see it.”

He said they will always want to provide beach parking for the year round users. Looking forward into the tourist season of late May, June, July, and August, which will necessitate approximately 1,000 parking spaces, brings about a new direction of conversation.

“The current estimate for returning all facilities to pre-storm use is somewhere between $500,000 and $900,000,” Hinds said. The question then becomes, whether that is the most effective route on which to embark. With no dunes to offer protection against the encroaching surf, what happens next time and the next time.”

It is inevitable that it will happen again. Indeed, worse storms have happened. Long time residents well remember the Ash Wednesday Storm of ‘62 and Hurricane Isabel in 2003. “As residents of the barriers islands and Eastern Shore, we accept that this is not a onetime event. It is not a question of if, but when, will equally if not more devastating, storms occur,” said Hinds.

The “when factor” creates the question of whether restoration of pre-storm parking is cost effective long term. Hinds says in his personal opinion parking does not have to be where it was before but possibly at a remote location where people would be transported from their vehicles to the beach and back again to their cars.

He doesn’t know now where that remote location would be. He also realizes it would have to be implemented in such a way that people don’t feel inconvenienced. The answers aren’t obvious or easy. Hinds did indicate that the park service would move ahead in securing emergency funding for restoration of parking.

The question becomes is it effective to have approximately 1,000 parking spaces sit there virtually unused to be demolished and rebuilt time and again? Hinds said,” We have a responsibility to the whole American public not to waste tax payer dollars.”

 The decision will need to be made by late March in order to regain full access by May no matter the direction parking takes.

The human factor is only one part of the equation. Part of what draws visitors and locals to the island is the “critters” as Hinds calls them. He indicated that the storm had torn all of the vegetation or food out of the lower pools near beach road. That said, the snow geese have arrived but are further north on the wash flats where the flooding was less severe. He said there are currently some 20,000 snow geese making their homes on the refuge.

The concern is that the overabundance of salt water that continues to wash into the pools will impede growth for the next season. They are currently exploring ways to flush some of the salt water out, but that will first require good old-fashioned rain that doesn’t come in with a storm pushing in more salt water. If they can gather enough fresh rain water in the pools that are used as impoundments, they can save it up and open the gates, flushing the area and hopefully some of the collected salt away.

Hinds also said that upon first gaining access to the island it was unbelievable to watch the amphibians and reptiles trying to navigate away from the salt water that had invaded. Bullfrogs and snapping turtles that should have been napping lined the high roads trying to get their bearings on what was occurring. Hinds said, “You wanted to help them but had no idea how.” The Delmarva Fox Squirrel fared well as did most other animals and no significant deaths were found or reported.

Hinds said he was in touch with the Chincoteague Fire Company, which owns the ponies. They discussed whether to open the gates that would allow the southern herds access to Beach Road and other higher ground in the Refuge. The determination was made that the ponies had access to some of the highest ground and could navigate to safety.

Harry Thornton, chairman of the Pony Committee, was out the day after the storm checking on the ponies and assessing what needed to be done, Hinds said. No ponies were lost in the storm and the ponies roamed freely over the island due to downed fences. They are safe but the cowboys and volunteers have a big job ahead, repairing fences and rounding up the ponies.

 Hinds said they didn’t really begin efforts to clean up until Saturday. On Friday he had Facility Manager Larry Beasley join him in doing a building assessment. In order to begin cleanup and damage assessment they had to have access to the facilities and determine the safety of those facilities.

On Saturday morning they mobilized volunteers and staff members came into work.

They began by clearing a large tree off the Bateman Center walkway which blocked door access. Next came road and some trail clean up on Woodland Trail. Volunteers over the weekend, with staff members, cleared the trail that runs through the original Assateague Settlement and continued to remove tires from the beach.

The artificial reef off the coast of Ocean City broke loose and distributed massive amounts of tires along beaches. Hinds reported that the park service on the northern end of the island had cleared out some 1,400 tires to date and they had picked up some 600 in two days of cleanup making a grand total of around 2,000 tires to date between the two agencies. They estimate they had another 400 as of Sunday.

All staff has been mobilized and along with NPS Maintenance Supervisor Ish Ennis are hard at work organizing and implementing restoration. Right after the storm,  National Park Service employee Gretchen Knapp and National Seashore Supervisor Trish Kicklighter, as well as other Tom’s Cove Visitors Center staff, worked together to staff the Bateman Center. The visitor service staff has created a DVD of pictures that run continuously in the center theater so visitors can see storm damage photos.

Anyone interested in volunteering should email Deputy Refuge Manager Kim Halpin who is doubling as volunteer coordinator at Kim_Halpin@FWS.gov.

Questions can be directed to the visitor’s center through email at FW5RW_CNWR@fws.gov and by phone 757-336-6122. Other developments can be found on the organization’s web site at http://www.fws.gov/northeast/chinco/

The writer is associate publisher of www.wildponytales.info. She lives on Chincoteague Island with her family.