His Thoughts are Never Far from Assateague

By Elizabeth Ranger and Robert Boswell

Editor’s note: Owen Hooks and his wife, Kathryn Adkins, recently purchased The Kite Koop, a book and kite store on Chincoteague Island.

The colt that Owen Hooks’ family got when he was 10 and the summer weeks and holidays he spent with his grandparents who kept the pony on Chicken City Road in Chincoteague forever tied him to the island and its barrier neighbor, Assateague. Like so many of the thousands who return each year to attend the Pony Penning, in July Hooks was there for his 44th time.

The pony’s name was Silver, and was only four hours old when young Hooks first laid his eyes on him. “He was born silver but, by the time he was four years old, he was a dapple gray,” Mr. Hooks said, “When we got over to Chincoteague, we were so happy to see Silver that we didn’t worry about getting a saddle

Kathryn Adkins and Owen Hooks with their four-year-old Chincoteague pony, Sienna Valentine

Kathryn Adkins and Owen Hooks with their four-year-old Chincoteague pony, Sienna Valentine

ready-we just rode him bareback.” Unfortunately, Silver was sold when Owen was five.

Hooks says there is no part of Chincoteague or Assateague he hasn’t explored. He likes to go and just spend all day on Assateague, especially on the extreme southern end of the island.

Hooks’ experience with horses, in particular Chincoteague Ponies, is a deep part of his life. Now, with his family he owns a five-year-old Chincoteague-Arabian pony named Sienna Valentine. She was the last pony sold at the Chincoteague fire company auction five years ago. The pony is one of four equine residents on the Hooks 30-acre farm on Shavox Road in Salisbury, they call the Pine Ridge Horse Farm. Their other horses are Rancher, a 26-year-old Appaloosa male; Kara, an 18-year-old Arabian female and Nottingham, a 21-year-old Arabian male.

Hooks isn’t the only family member interested in horses. His wife, Kathryn Adkins, runs a private counseling practice at the farm. She’s a mental health counselor and uses horses to promote self esteem, team work, and other characteristics for people with mental health issues. “It turns out that a horse can be a thousand-pound training tool,” said Ms. Hooks.

She left her position as acting director of the Salisbury University Student Counseling Center seven years ago and went into private practice.

When they met eight years ago, Hooks brought five sons into the household and Kathryn, a daughter, Annie Reading. Their farm home is a busy place, filled not only with horse activities, but with projects and ideas and plans. In his education, career and his outside life, Hooks has never veered far from home. “I love the Shore,” said Hooks, “and I’m not leaving.”

Hooks grew up in Salisbury. He went to St. Francis Elementary School and later attended Bennet Middle and High Schools. Hooks said he had good English teachers all through school and he gives them credit for much of what he has accomplished.

Hooks also became involved in the Catholic Church. Around age 19, he went to work in a program with the Diocese of Wilmington, doing peer counseling and raising money for a children’s hospital. “I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do,” he said.

With the church, he got to work with the Ulster Project that brings 20 high school age Protestants and 20 Catholics to America for a summer from Northern Ireland. “The idea was to show them that in America most of the time we can get past the sectarian violence they had back home. “Some of those people are running the country now,” he said.

Later Hooks heard of a pre-med program at the University of Maryland Eastern Shore that guaranteed admission to graduate school.

While in college, in a previous marriage, he became a father of the first of five sons, Richard. He had to work at several jobs just to pay for his college tuition. In a doctor’s office, he worked as a laboratory technician running tests on blood and joint fluid. While taking a break from the laboratories, he made pizzas at Pizza Hut, later becoming a manager.

After finishing college, he went on to father four more sons, Neal, Brian, Alexander, and Patrick, all of whom attended Worcester County (Maryland) schools. Hooks became a board-certified medical technologist, and worked at the Peninsula Regional Medical Center for a decade.

Today he is an environmental scientist and laboratory manager at the NASA Wallops Flight Facility in Wallops Island. He is employed by a NASA contractor and the lab he manages tests drinking water, waste water, soil samples and fuel samples. “I enjoy having a career that gives back to the public,” said Hooks.

Nothing that Hooks does takes him very far from Chincoteague and the famous ponies.

“When we were first married five years ago,” said Kathryn, “Owen was talking about publishing this book about the auction, but you know…,” she said.

Hooks said he went to the auction dozens of times as well as other horse auctions and it hit him there was no catalog about linage, performance and awards as other auctions usually have. “You can’t really do that for the Chincoteague auction,” he said, “but I felt you could give people more information than they were getting.”

Several years earlier Hooks had started keeping records on the pony sales, recording their colors and prices. “I thought I started seeing some patterns,” Owens said. “Females brought more than males, and the lower prices were at the beginning and end of the auction,with the highest prices coming in the middle. I noticed that chestnuts and bays were frequently the lowest sellers because those colors are very common.

“What makes the Chincoteague ponies so unique is all these white colors thrown in,” said Hooks.

Hooks kept records for over a decade, writing down things he found interesting. “This is what I do as a scientist,” he said, looking for patterns or disruptions of patterns.”

So despite Kathryn’s raised eyebrows, the records and a ton of other pony information finally found their way into the “Pine Ridge Horse Farm’s Illustrated Guide To: The Wild Pony Auction.” Kathryn even helped take the photos.

Paying for the printing himself, Hooks published 1,000 copies and sold them all for $20 each in 2005. The next year he published an updated version of 2,000 and didn’t sell them all. This led to a decision not to reprint them this past year, but the second edition is on sale in about 20 stores.

One notion Hooks wanted to dispel in his book was that Chincoteague ponies have gotten too expensive. “You read about the ones that go for $10,000 and you get the idea they are no longer affordable,” said Hooks, “but it is not true.”

For example, the rare black pony may sell for the high price of $4,400, whereas a dun, a pony with a washed-out body color with dark, primitive marking, might sell for a much lower price of $500. The majority sell for below $1,500. That’s a reasonable price,” said Hooks. They paid $1,600 for Sienna Valentine.

When the ponies are raised on a farm and are fed good food they are not more expensive than other horses, Hooks said. “They are easy keepers, don’t need fancy food or fancy care and have strong hooves.”

The guide includes plenty of helpful information for prospective pony buyers. Readers get a quick history on how Pony Penning evolved from sheep and cattle roundups 300 years ago. “By the mid-1950′s, the sales had become full-fledged, open bid auctions that served to raise money for the fire company and to maintain the size of the herd,” Hooks writes. “Low auction prices of this era were below $25 and high prices rarely exceeded $100.”

The guide provides a lesson in horse colorings and plenty of advice. “It is critical that those who wish to make a purchase find some time…to view the foals.” There is a chart of average prices paid by color and several pages that give how many of each color and markings have been sold and prices paid. There are pages with outlines of ponies so buyers can fill in markings to identify ponies they want to bid on.

There is another primary pursuit in Hook’s life. His music. Last summer, with some of his friends from Wallops Flight Facility, he played at the Blarney Stone Pub in Onancock but he might turn up anywhere with the group known as the Saltgrass Ramblers, playing contemporary folk, bluegrass and Celtic music.

Hooks has always loved music. He sang in the every year in school. He also played the guitar when he was a teenager. The band got good enough to play for restaurants, at coffee houses and even weddings. They released an album of original music. After that the band played all over the East Coast. Hooks still plays his guitar and sings, Jay Brown is on the bass guitar, and Chip Blackwell plays the fiddle. Sometimes Hooks’ sons join him, also singing and playing.

Hooks admits that what got him into horses was partially the Misty story and partially because he had his own pony.

Perhaps it all comes from his ancestry. His mother is descended from Scott-Irish Catholics, and his father was part Native American and raised Southern Baptist before converting.

Hooks said many of the things important to him, the Ocean, the sky, the wildlife, a little touch of freedom, are all on that island, Assateague.

A Night with the Chincoteague Ponies

By Tyler Marks

How do you tell someone you spent a night with the famous Chincoteague wild ponies? Maybe I should just learn to keep my mouth shut. When I started to tell Mr. Boswell, my journalism teacher, about my overnight during Pony Penning in July, he said, “Sit right down at your computer and write what you are telling me.”

So here is how I happened to spend a night with the ponies, something Mr. Boswell said tens of thousands of teenagers across the country would like to do.

My Dad, Walter Marks, has been one of the saltwater cowboys for nearly 27 years. As most local people know, the cowboys go into the wilderness at Assateague Island three times a year and drive the ponies into corrals where they are cared for by their veterinarian, Dr. Charlie Cameron. After the roundup in July the young ponies are auctioned off to make money for the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company, which actually owns them. I helped out on the day of the auction, too.

Dad just retired as a trooper with the Virginia State Police but he hasn’t said anything about giving up his cowboy duties.

Anyway, after the ponies, all 150 of them plus their offspring, were rounded up in July, they were driven into the big holding pen on the curve on Beach Road. Lots of people come and look at them and those who plan to try to buy one the next day at the auction might get their eye on the one they want.

As evening settled in, my Dad got the job, along with his friend Mr. Will Hines, another cowboy, and me, to stay with the ponies through the night.
I have been working with the ponies since I was a little boy, but this was my first time spending the night with them. It was our job to make sure nothing bad happened during the night before the auction.

I started off as a member of the Pony Patrol. The job of the Pony Patrol is to keep the aisles clear of people. Then, in case one of the wranglers gets hurt really bad they can be brought through the isle to a waiting ambulance.

This past year I got to wrangle the ponies. When I say wrangle I mean bring them out to be where the buyers can see them, holding them as still as possible while the auctioneer calls on the bidders.

Anyone who has been at the pen when the ponies are driven in by the riders can tell you it is not a quiet time. The stallions all have their own families, called bands that they keep together on the range. But in the pen all the bands get mixed together.

While I was there at the south pen, the stallions sometimes fought each other, rearing up on their hind legs and trying to bite each other. Then after a few minutes everything started to calm down. I could even hear frogs and crickets as darkness fell. Assateague is known as a buggy place during the summer. The bugs were bad when we first got there, then they started to calm down, and later they went away.

As we began our long night, I could swear I heard one of the horses kick another horse. It kind of sounded like a bone cracked. I don’t know if that’s what it was for sure. You can’t always tell about sounds in the night. I went and told my Dad and we went to check on the ponies. Then I shined my flashlight on a pony on the ground.

I was not sure what was wrong with it but I told my Dad. He wanted me to go and take a look at it. I went over to the pony, it was not moving. I kicked the pony softly on the hoof, and it jumped up and ran away. It must have been sleeping.

When we got through checking, we went back to the car and sat down for a little while, then I fell asleep. I woke up at about midnight and realized that my Dad had gone again to check on the horses. I got out of the car to find him, then I got back in the car and slept through the rest of the night.

The next morning I woke up to find visitors already there. When more fire department staff got there my Dad, Mr. Hines, and I went to breakfast. Then we came back to help with the feeding and watering. When everything was done we all went home.

Tyler is a 9th grade student this semester at Nandua High School on the Eastern Shore of Virginia, not far from Assateague Island. He is the son of Wanda Marks, a middle school nurse, and Walter Marks, a veteran Saltwater Cowboy. Tyler, always at his Dad’s side, is fast becoming an experienced rider, and will have many more Chincoteague pony stories to tell in the years ahead. This column was originally written for The Nandua News, the school newspaper. Now on www.wildponytales.com, it will be read by thousands of viewers all over the world. The editor in chief of the site is Elizabeth Fread, editor of The Nandua News last year, who is now a freshman at Nandua High. Her sister, Kristen, is editor of the paper this year.

In the Early Days, Ponies had Company Grazing on Assateague

By Wilma Young

In 1687 Captain Daniel Jenifer received a patent for 3500 acres of “sandy and marshy and swampish land”..all of Assateague Island up to the Maryland state line.

In the early history of Chincoteague and Assateague Islands, animals were grazing freely on the mainland, destroying crops. To avoid the cost of fencing, possible law suits and impending taxes, farmers moved their stock out onto the barrier islands where no one lived, no one owned land, no one farmed and grass and fresh water were available.

Jenifer had purchased 1500 acres of Chincoteague Island as early as 1671 so he used both islands to pasture his live stock. According to law he would have needed a minimum of four men as rangers to attend the stock. He settled thirty people on Assateague although research by Bearss indicates that they may have been employed only seasonally. Bearss presumes that the rangers may have slaughtered some of the animals and cured the meat for market. Other farmers used the islands for pasture land as well.

As long as young animals: calves, foals, kids and piglets were with their mothers, round-up was unnecessary. However when ownership couldn’t be proven and stock men wanted to re-claim their animals, problems arose. A new code went into effect …”captors-keepers”. If a man could capture a horse in the presence of others he could then legally claim it and brand it. Over the years this became a holiday with food and games and an auction of the unclaimed horses. The auction and festival appear to have taken place on Assateague Island. (Since the Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Department has owned the horses, the auction and festival have taken place on Chincoteague Island.)

Maximillion Gore bought the island in 1689 “for 12,400 pounds of tobacco”. His step-sons and his son Daniel inherited the property. It is believed that Daniel lived on Assateague. By 1764 there were 25 people living on Assateague Island.

The property was bought and sold many times in the 18th and 19th centuries. Evidently not many farmers or stock men were successful because much of the island was returned to the state for non-payment of taxes. In 1841 eleven men acquired 880 acres of Ragged Point from the state. Sometime in the 19th century the community of Assateague Village was formed. John Jones appears to have owned several plots in this location.

The village of Assateague lay between the present location of Assateague Lighthouse and Assateague Channel. Local folklore reports that one of Blackboard^ fourteen wives once lived in the village. The Life Saving Service was established in 1847 and one of the stations was located on the Virginia end of Assateague Island. (The remains of its cistern are located at the right hand side of the beginning of the Woodland Trail in Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge.) Members of the Life Saving Station may have lived in Assateague Village. It is certain that at least fifty of the village men worked at a fish factory on Toms Hook where menhaden were processed into fish oil and fertilizer.

The villagers gardened, raised chickens, ducks, sheep and hogs. Only the hogs were penned. Salt making was a major activity for several years as the salt was needed for preserving foods. This was especially important during the Revolutionary War when the salt supply from England was cut off.

The first fish factory was the Seaboard Fish Oil and Guano Company built in 1912. In 1919 the factory burned but the Conant Brothers Fish Oil Company set up another company that same year. This operation lasted only ten years. By then Toms Cove was filling with sand and the larger fishing boats were unable to reach the dock.

Samuel B. Fields of Baltimore purchased most of Assateague Island in the early 1900′s. He fenced off lands for cattle grazing and hired Oliphant as overseer. Armed with a rifle, Oliphant patrolled the fields preventing the villagers from crossing to the seashore where they had harvested clams and oysters and worked at the fish factory. By 1922 the villagers accepted this as a final blow to their village and barged their homes over to Chincoteague Island. The exception was Bill Scott, grocer, who remained in his home until 1932. He did not move the house. He and his wife simply moved over to Chincoteague Island.                                                                  

Now as you stand at Assateague Lighthouse and face Assateague Channel, you will see a stand of loblolly pine where the village once stood. In 1994 only a couple of walls of Scott’s house still stand. Several door sills of other homes can be found on the site.

During the 1920′s and 30′s sportsmen were attracted to the area to hunt and fish. Gun clubs were established.

In 1930 Fields left the island to his sister Nellie, the wife of Dr. W.M. Burwell of Chincoteague. In 1942, Mrs. Burwell et al sold eight thousand eight hundred and eight and one half acres to the federal government for the development of Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge.

Wilma Young served as a senior volunteer at several national parks, coming to the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge three times. 

Her last stay at the Chincoteague refuge was just before her 80th birthday in 1997-98. On this third stay she served as an environmental education teacher for the Chincoteague Natural History Association. As a volunteer in her first two summers, along with the various duties she was given, Wilma found time to write. She spent hours reading about Chincoteague history and conducting research in the libraries. Some of her articles later found their way onto the Refuge web site, some were published in our local newspapers and some were used as trail guides for other volunteers. Today, at the age of 89, Wilma is as intensely interested in protecting our planet as she ever was. She can talk non-stop about the ways we humans have found to cause harm to our environment. She is passionate about things most people never take the time to learn. Years ago she wrote a story for her granddaughter, explaining why she often wasn’t home. “Every living thing depends on other living things and although we know a lot of the connections, we don’t know them all.” In explaining her work with the Refuge to her granddaughter, Wilma wrote, “…I help report the numbers on the goose collars…I answer questions our visitors have about all the wild creatures…I notify the biologists of any reports of unusual sightings of sick animal or creatures caught in nets…sometimes I pick up trash on the beach…I wander the trails, answering more questions…and best of all I look up a lot of stuff then write about it to help people understand how much we all need each other.” It is hard to find the words to describe this caring, kind and concerned grandmother. But her precise and accurate writing speaks for itself. We are pleased to publish her work in Wild Pony Tales. – Robert Boswell, publisher. 

SOURCES
General Background Study and Historical Base Map…Assateague
Island National Seashore…Edwin C. Bearss….Office of
Archeology and Historic Preservation…U.S. Department of the
Interior. 1968

Studies of The Virginia Eastern Shore in The Seventeenth
Century… Susan Ames…The Dietz Press…1940

Description of the Nellie F. Burwell Tracts
and Purchase Approval/ complete with Survey by Daniel H. McArn,
Assistant Cadastral Engineer..1942