Children, Parents Enjoy International Migratory Bird Day at the Refuge

By Misty Thornton

Co-Editor, Wild Pony Tales

On an hot early morning on Assateague Island, VA, bird-lovers, park rangers and visitors gathered to enjoy a day full of family learning as well as some games and entertaining exhibits.

As we crossed the Assateague Channel Bridge to the beautiful island of Assateague, the air was moist and the sun was hot, but nothing was going to stop the excitement that was fluttering in the hearts of children and their parents. At the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge parking lots were filling up fast as people from all around came to enjoy themselves at the International Migratory Bird Day Festival.

Tee shirts and carving lessons were available just ouside the refuge information center, along with hotdogs and bottles of water.

Walking through the first set of doors to the information center four exhibits lined the lobby’s walls. Carver Bill Cowen had on display about 20 of his best power carved birds of all shapes and sizes from an arrangement of owls to a bright red cardinal.

Mr. Cowen said one of his birds made second best in the world at a competition.  As a carving teacher of about 30 years he said, “I love carving. It’s just something you can sit back, relax, and not even think about it. It’s like everything around you disappears and only you and your carvings are left.”  Mr. Cowen has a place on the island but mainly lives in New Jersey with his family and his business.

Then, there was an assortment of birds, ducks, and fish carvings on the next table done by Ed Kuhn of Onancock, VA., and there was also an exhibit that had photographs of birds, sunsets and wildlife taken by Robert Wilson.

The next exhibit was by Donnie Thornton. His had bird feathers with hand painted fine art on the front. He’s lived on the island all his life and painting feathers is just what comes natural. He’s been painting island houses, ponies, birds and plants on feathers for 17 years now. “When I’m not painting, I’m playing with my horse, Nugget,” said Mr. Thornton.

Inside the information center there was plenty more for visitors to experience. The conference room was the place for children. There was face painting, woodcarving for kids, experts to talk about birds and fuzzy, live birds that would later get center stage in the Scales and Tales program in the auditorium.

Coming out of the conference room and back into the main center, were two main exhibits. Residents Wayne and JeanBonde had on exhibit a large variety of duck stamps representing each year since 1934.

The migratory bird stamps have been around since the first one in 1934. We decided to collect them which meant we had to go back and get all the other stamps in the series that we didn’t have from 1934 until 1977, ” said Ms. Bonde. “We went to stamp shows trying to find as inexpensive  used ones as we could fine. It took us a while, maybe about 20 years.”

In the meantime, in 1977, they started buying a migratory bird stamp each year which keeps them up to date. The older used stamps, 1934 up to 1977, are all signed by the hunters using them.  “It is a requirement,” explained Mr. Bonde, “if you are going to hunt waterfowl, that you have one of the migratory bird stamps signed by you in your possession for that year. From 1977 on, all the migratory bird stamps I have are unsigned.

Right now a migratory bird stamp costs $15. “They can also be used to gain entrances onto refuges and state parks,” said Mr. Bonde.

Further along in the information center was an artist, Jenny Somers, who had hand painted over 50 pictures. She lives on Chincoteague. “Every moment of free time I have I’m usually painting the scenery and the world around me. What a better place to do that then right outside of my home.”

There were exhibits of photographs and more paintings. One thing that attracted the most attention wasn’t an exhibit at all. It was the live eagle cam which brings the eagles and on that day just-born eaglets right onto a TV screen in the information center. The actual nest is high in the pines just off the Wildlife Loop. With visitors and Wild Pony Tales cameras looking on the first of two eggs hatched right before our eyes. Visitors were overjoyed to see the mother caring for her baby. The two eggs were special to the refuge staff because the first three eggs had been destroyed in a wind storm.  (See separate story on the site.)

When the excitement died down it was time for the Scales and Tales presentation where Erica Mcgrath and Samantha Ford from the Conservation Corp. in Maryland gave detailed information on their animals they brought with them from Pocomoke River State Park. Their animals all have been wounded at some point in their life and have been taken under the park’s wing. The animals included from owls, turtles, falcons and even an Eastern King Snake. (See a separate story.)

The Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge and the National Park Service both hold events and programs for families and children throughout the summer.

Eagles Rebuild Nest, Start a New Family

By Kate White

Right on schedule, to the pure delight of visitors who find their way to the live cam at the back of the exhibit area at the information center on Assateague Island, the eagles have returned to their nest, made repairs and are now sitting on two eggs.

People can stay as long as they want and many leave entries in the Eagle Eye, a journal where visitors can record a message, or like one child did, a drawing

The Eagle Cam has become a very popular attraction in the Bateman Center on Assateague, the place where many of the 1.4 million visitors to the refuge begin their trip.

Questions about the eagles can be directed to the visitor center through email at FW5RW_CNWR@fws.gov and by phone 757-336-6122. Other developments can be found on at http://www.fws.gov/northeast/chinco/

When the young eagles arrive in about five weeks visitors can see the parents taking turns on the nest and feeding their babies. But the menu will not be like anything a newborn might eat at home. For the eaglets it will be  fish, rabbits, snakes, duck, turtles and perhaps a piece of squirrel.

The habitat of the wildlife refuge is a wonderful area to have these birds because it has mostly what the eagle considers as food, said Ossana Wolff, a park ranger.  “Every once and a while we’ll see one of them bring up a whole fish to feed on, but most times they just cut it apart. They are very opportunistic.”

 The eagles spend most of their time in high places scoping out food from up in some of the tall loblolly pine trees that are found throughout the island.

Ms. Wolff is one of the newest park rangers. She originally came from the Washington D.C. area.  She attended Virginia Tech, and received a degree in Natural Resources Conservation. She helps out in camps held at the refuge throughout the summer.

The cam attracts regulars from the island of Chincoteague, Ms. Wolff said,  and also people who come in frequently time to time just to see the camera and check on the eagles. The storm a few months back brought this all to a halt and put the camera out of order. Recently, it has been fixed and the camera’s fans are coming back fast.

During the late days of January and the first days of February, the eagles lay their eggs, usually two or three. The waiting time for the hatchlings could take 35 days. Not all the eaglets live. The newborn has furry body with grayish-white skin and a smokey beak. At this time, their only protections are their parents. The offspring that lives are taught how to fly when they are two or three months old.

The comments left in the journal by guests go from the present to the first day the camera was turned on.

 Their nest looks to be about ½ an eagle body long and 3 eagle bodies wide, larger than It was a week ago, one visitor wrote. Here are some other comments.

1/11/11

Eagles both still building like they have a deadline to meet.

Eagles Cam Fan

1/10/11

Both eagles are on the nesting spot. The male seems to be calling the shots.

Eagle Cam Fan

1/3/11

Both Eagles are on the nest. They seem to be having a disagreement about a stick.

Eagles Cam Fan

Right now, the eagles are rebuilding the nest from recent destruction by the wind of the storm which was around 25 to 26 mph. They have recovered most of their nest recently in only a few weeks time, but it’s still not finished. “They bring back more bits and pieces of foliage of leaves and twigs when they return to their home, and it’s visible to see what they added that day that wasn’t there before”, said Ms. Wolff. “It is built higher than 55 feet.” What they usually do at the tree is keep watch over it and mess around with the nest packing it together, so it’s secure.

Old Passage to the Islands Gives Way to the New

Workers from American Bridge Company spent some cold and windy days in January, taking apart the old swing bridge to Chincoteague Island, piece by piece. The fashes of light are from the cutting torches used to cut apart the steel framework. The sections being lifted out are from the roadbed. Video by Robert Boswell and Misty Thornton

 

By Robert Boswell

If you’re returning to Chincoteague Island for a visit, or just coming home after a day at work on the mainland, something will be missing. The old swing bridge is gone.

On Sunday evening, January 16 workmen from American Bridge Company lit up their cutting torches and prepositioned supplies and equipment and began to take the old landmark apart. The next day boat traffic was halted for 10 hours while the first section was cut up and lifted away by a giant crane.

Once boats could move freely through the opening, workmen, in mostly cold and wet weather, cut the remaining section up piece by piece until all that was left by Friday, January 28 was open space where the bridge had been since 1939 and the turn style.

Pieces of the steel structure and the roadbed were piled up by the crane on work barges and on nearby Marsh Island.  As the crane engine blew out black smoke and workers called out to each other, the sea birds and ducks that hang out along Chincoteague Channel floated along as usual, unaware that history was being undone right in front of them.

The control cab section and the gates will be used by the Town of Chincoteague either in a museum or located in Robert N. Reed Sr. Park along the waterfront.

The demolition of the bridge began soon after the Marsh Island spur to the new bridge was completed. The main bridge, that runs three quarters of a mile over marsh lands and the Black Narrows and Lewis Creek Channel was completed in the summer and officially opened at a dedication program on October 16.

The new bridges which cost about $69 million, have a draw bridge over the channel which will not have to open as often because some of the fishing boats dock on lower Chincoteague piers.

The original bridge was opened in 1922, when the John B. Whealton causeway was built and then replaced around 1939.

Ponies, Cowboys Make Early Morning Run Along Atlantic Beach

By Misty Thornton

Each year thousands of pony lovers arrive on the island of Chincoteague, Virginia the last week in July just to wrap their eyes around the famous Chincoteague ponies, many for a whole week full of fun and sight-seeing.

The Saltwater Cowboys, almost as famous as the Chincoteague ponies, begin their work on Saturday, the week before Pony Penning,  with the roundup of the southern herd. Then, on Sunday they move to the northern range at the tip of the Virginia side of the island to round up the larger herd of around 100 ponies plus foals. Where the land is so much bigger than the southern range, it  takes longer to round the ponies up and put them into their corra l. The northern herd is less seen by the public because the access road, which runs 7.5 miles into the wilderness, is only open to hikers.

Both the southern and northern ranges are part of the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. The ponies are owned by the Chincotegue Volunteer Fire Company.

The swim which takes place on Wednesday of “Pony Week” is the event that brings 30,000 to 40,000 visitors to this small island off the Virginia coast, but on the last Monday in July what’s known as the Beach Run has become its own attraction. More than 3,000 visitors made up of  vacationers, pony-lovers and pony bidders line the Assateague beach early in the morning  to see the northern herd escorted along the Atlantic Ocean to the  southern corral on Beach Road.  This day is just the start of the  Pony Penning, a weeklong event.

This year’s beach run started off with traffic backed up just as visitors arrived on the bridge to Assateague Island before 6 a.m. because only one toll booth was open and collecting money. So everyone had to wait in a very impatient line to enter the island. When we finally got onto Assateague, the parking lot for the beach was packed.

Walking north from the parking lot, we joined the crowd in search of the perfect viewing spot. As we walked along the beach we saw family after family with their beach equipment, towels, water, binoculars, sunscreen,  chairs and anything else they could carry to help them pass the hour-plus wait as the sun rose over the Atlantic. Everyone was settling down in what they hoped would be  just the right spot to catch an early morning glimpse of the Chincoteague wild ponies.

One of these early morning families was from Maryland. Their family car wasn’t the regular car with the total of five seats in all. It was a strtch limo, with enough seats for the parents to carry all 10 of their children. “We always thought it would be nice to bring the kids here, and we’ve been coming for a couple years now,” said Tammy, the mother.

The wait was on but it wasn’t so bad. As the sun started to rise, the ripples in the water made it look like the horizon of orange and yellow was exploding into waves that crashed along the island sand. Children played in the ripples with their bathing suits on, and little ones dug holes into the sand to try and build some small sand castles.

After a wait of nearly two hours, at 7:30 a.m. the ponies appeared in a distance through light fog, all encouraged along by the Cowboys in a tight formation. As they passed, spectators cheered, most getting their first up-close look at a Chincoteague pony.

Except for a few “buybacks” the foals, even those just born, would not return to Assateague.  Most would be taken to new homes by owners who cast the highest bids at the upcoming auction on Thursday. Buybacks are a few chosen ponies that are auctioned off but returned to the herd.

The end of their trip on this Monday were the big corrals on the Beach Road curve, where all ponies from both herds and all their foals would spend the night.

Nestled by their mothers, the foals slept and nursed while the parents ate and drank the fresh water that was awaiting them when they entered the corral to join the southern ponies. Groups of ponies played and pranced about sometimes accidentally bumping into their mothers. Life in the corral would only last until early Wednesday morning, known as swim day, when the ponies would either swim or go by trailer lighting up the eyes of thousands who had come from across the nation to see them.

 

Youngest Salt Water Cowboy in First Pony Penning

By Misty Thornton and Robert Boswell
  
Before he was old enough to sit in the saddle by himself, young Tyler Marks rode in front of his dad, sitting just behind the saddle horn.  Before long, Tyler made it into the saddle alone, being pulled along by his Dad until he could handle a horse on his own. Now 16, Tyler is the youngest Salt Water Cowboy, set to ride all week at the July Pony Penning events.
Tyler is a rising junior at Nandua High School. His Dad, Walter Marks, is a retired Virginia state trooper, serving 35 years, and veteran Salt Water Cowboy, riding in his 30th year at the famous Chincoteague event.

Everything Tyler knows about horses was passed down from Walter and his Mom, Wanda, also an experienced horse person. Tyler and his Dad are rarely seen apart. The Marks family lives in Onley. His mother is the nurse at Nandua Middle School. Walter, Wanda, Tyler and his sister Ashley, are all members of the Melfa Fire Department. Wanda and Amanda, an older sister, also work for an ambulance company.  On fire and rescue calls, sometimes more than one of them goes on the same call. Tyler is also a member of the Onley Fire Department, going out on calls there too.  At a big building fire in Onley last Sunday all the Marks were there.

“There are more accidents on weekends and sometimes I just stay over at the firehouse,” he said. It has been a rough year for firemen on the Shore. “We buried three of our members this year,” said Tyler. One fire call they worked until 4 a.m., he recalled. “Monday was the worst day I ever had at school.”

Tyler attended classes every Sunday for six months to become a certified firefighter. As a junior fireman, his main job was to set up lighting and ventilation if needed as well as other equipment.  Now, Tyler is a certified firefighter. “At the Onley fire,” said Walter, “Tyler was inside with an air pack, fighting the fire.

The work of a fireman and his time with horses is mostly outside which is just fine with Tyler. He does not own a computer and does not play video games. He does, however, text his friends from his cell phone and knows how to respond to the fire pager.

Every afternoon, Tyler and Walter head out to a nearby farm where they feed and care for their three horses, Mo, Clint and Tig. How Tyler came to have Tig, a Chincoteague pony, is a story itself.

Each year Tyler and Walter attend a mule show in Powellville, Md., near Snow Hill. Five years ago Tyler entered a raffle for a Chincoteague pony.  “They sold the tickets for a dollar a piece. I bought way more than just one ticket,” Tyler said. When the winning ticket was drawn, Tyler found out he had won. The Marks brought home Tig.

His relationship with Tig has grown. “I’m almost to the point that I think I can ride him,” he said. Every day after school he and his dad train, play and spend time with all three of their horses.

Tyler has been going to the roundups as long as he can remember. He has previously ridden alone in the swim back, when the southern herd is returned to their Assateague Island home. Pony Penning is the only vacation the Marks take, with them spending the week on Chincoteague. Tyler’s mom goes on duty as a nurse with the medical crew.

Tyler’s first outing as a Cowboy was in the fall roundup and he also rode in the spring roundup. But this will be his first time riding alone at every Pony Penning event and it is a busy week for the cowboys. Their work begins long before the big crowd of up to 40,000 visitors ever get to see them.

Harry Thornton, chairman of the Pony Committee, said he has watched Tyler grow up alongside his Dad. “It seems like in the last two or three years Tyler has grown and matured,” said Mr. Thornton. “It is a pleasure to have him finally riding with us.” Mr. Thornton said Tyler has been helpful to the fire company through the years and he deserves to ride. Tyler was approved by the Pony Committee to become a Salt Water Cowboy.

There are a number of father-son rider combinations who are cowboys and some families have more than two riders. The riders, all volunteers, come from as far as North Carolina, Delaware and Maryland.

For the Marks, the day before they leave for a roundup has its own routine.  He and his Dad go to the stables where their horses are kept, brush and feed them and make sure that everything they’ll need for the following day is in its “easy to pick-up” spot.

Each roundup takes two days of their time and throughout Pony Penning they are busy seven days straight.

The Chincoteague ponies are divided into the southern and northern herds, about 150 in all plus about 70 foals that will be auctioned off. For the southern roundup, the riders will report in the late afternoon, July 25, Saturday. The cowboys can usually be seen on the range to the right of Beach Road, often with the ponies scampering ahead of them toward a holding area off the Woodland Trail. Once all of the ponies have arrived there, they will be moved to the big corral near the Beach Road curve.

On Sunday, July 25 while veterinarian Dr. Charlie Cameron and his staff are checking the southern ponies, the cowboys are off to the much larger northern range to get this herd into their corral, about 3.5 miles out on the service road that runs off the Wildlife Loop.

Then, with another early day in front of them, the cowboys will escort the northern ponies over to the beach and walk them in a tight formation down the Atlantic Ocean shore line, an event that is now attended by some 3,000-plus visitors, eager to get a look at the famous ponies. This “Beach Walk” ends at the southern corral where both herds remain until the swim on Wednesday. The stallions, used to having control over their own bands of mares in the wild, are not always friendly to each other.

 Tyler knows this corral almost as well as his own yard. He has spent many hours here helping feed the ponies and filling water tubs. One year, with his Dad and a friend, he spent the entire night there, keeping an eye on the ponies all night long. He wrote about this in his 7th grade journalism class at Nandua Middle and his story still appears on this website. The job of a Salt Water Cowboy is not always an easy one. For one thing, the wilds of Assateague Island in the summer have swarms of mosquitoes and biting bugs of all kinds and by the end of July the heat can be overpowering.

 Depending on the weather, the range can be muddy and somewhat dangerous even to experienced horsemen. Tyler said in the spring roundup there were no unpleasant surprises but he did get to “go swimming” when his horse dropped into a hole filled with water. “I voluntarily jumped off,” he said. “If there’s a rider who hasn’t had a mishap, he’s just lucky. There are always interesting moments because you’re trying to get the ponies to go where they don’t want to go.”

On auction day, Tyler can be found right in the ring as one of the wranglers. Two wranglers work together to hold onto a bucking pony and move the pony around the ring so prospective bidders can get a look. “Last July when I walked through the gate a pony reared and kicked,” he said. “I got my middle finger bone broken in two places, and it chipped my ring finger.”

For the past 28 summers the Marks family has helped run a special needs camp at Camp Occohannock in Belle Haven, an Eastern Shore community.  Along with other volunteers they provide crafts and activities including fishing, horseback, riding and games.

Now in his last two years of high school, Tyler is looking toward the future. “I may go into the Coast Guard,” he said, “but I don’t want a desk job. I’ve got to be doing something outside.” 

       Misty Thornton is co-editor and Mr. Boswell is the publisher of www.wildponytales.info.